Steering Linkage

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

Pitman Arm

NOTE: It is possible to remove the Pitman arm with the steering box on the car. The job is much easier if the steering gearbox is removed.

1. Elevate and safely support the vehicle on jackstands.
2. Remove the left front wheel.
3. Remove the cotter pin and castle nut holding the Pitman arm to the relay rod.
4. Use a screw-type joint separator to pull the relay rod off the Pitman arm joint. Do not hammer on the joint and do not use a fork-type separator.
5. Remove the locknut and washer from the bottom of the steering gearbox.
6. Using a Pitman arm puller (MB 990809–01 or equivalent), remove the arm from the steering box.
7. When installing the arm, note that there are matchmarks on both the arm and the gearbox output shaft. These marks MUST be aligned at reinstallation.
8. Install the locknut and washer to the steering pump shaft. Tighten the nut to 190 ft. lbs. (140 Nm).
9. Fit the Pitman arm to the relay rod joint. Use a new boot. Install a new castle nut, tightening it to 30 ft. lbs. (40 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
10. Install the left wheel. Lower the vehicle to the ground.

Idler Arm

1. Elevate and safely support the vehicle on stands.
2. Remove the front wheels.
3. Remove the cotter pin and the castle nut holding the relay rod to the idler arm.
4. Use a screw-type joint separator to split the ball joint at the relay rod.
5. Remove the nut holding the idler arm to its pivot. Remove the arm, noting the placement of the spacers, washers and the plastic bushings. Alternatively, the idler arm pivot may be unbolted from the vehicle and the arm disassembled on the workbench.
6. Remove the dust cover and O-ring from the end of the tie rod. Apply grease (Multipurpose grease SAE J310, NLGI No. 2) to the lip portion of the dust cover and inside the cover. Apply 3M® ART Part No. 8663 or the equivalent to the dust cover installation surface, then press it in.
7. Apply grease to the inside surface of the bushing and the idler arm support shaft. Insert the bushing into the idler arm, then insert the idler arm support into the idler arm. Insert so that the knurled surface of the washer is facing the bushing side. Tighten the self locking nut to 36 ft. lbs. (50 Nm).
8. If the entire pivot and bracket was removed, tighten the mounting bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (55 Nm).
9. Connect the idler arm to the relay rod and install the nut on the ball stud. Tighten the nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm); install a new cotter pin.
10. Lubricate the front end components.
11. Install the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground.

Center Link

Mitsubishi refers to this component as the Relay Rod.

1. Disconnect the tie-rod ends from the relay rod on each side.
2. Disconnect the relay rod at the Pitman arm, using a screw-type puller to separate the joint.
3. Position a jack or jackstand under the relay rod at the Pitman arm to support it; allowing the linkage to hang free may damage one of the joints.
4. Disconnect the relay rod from the idler arm.
5. Remove the linkage assembly from the car.
6. Individual pieces of the linkage may be separated on the workbench. Do not reuse any dust cover, O-ring or cotter pin.

   To install:

7. Reassemble the linkage and position it under the car, using the jack to assist you.
8. Install the joint to the idler arm first, then connect the Pitman arm joint and install the tie rod ends to the knuckle. Each castellated nut should be tightened to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm) and be secured with a new cotter pin.
9. Lubricate the front end steering components.

Tie Rod Ends

1. Raise the vehicle and support it safely on jackstands.
2. Remove the wheel on the same side as the tie rod end which needs to be replaced.
3. Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end. Loosen, but do not remove, the nut on the tie rod.
4. Use a fork-type tie rod separator, remove the tie rod from the steering knuckle. Remove the nut and pull the outer tie rod out of the knuckle. Use a screw-type joint separator to remove the inner tie rod end from the relay rod (center link).
5. Loosen the sleeve clamp nut, if equipped, and unscrew the tie rod end from the sleeve or inner tie rod. Count the number of turns required to remove the end, or measure, before removal, the amount of threads protruding from the sleeve. Do the same for the inner tie rod end.
6. If both ends of the tie rod were removed, there is a third way to measure the correct location of the tie rods. Install the tie rods into the sleeve and continue to tighten until the distance between the centers of each tie rod end is equal to the following dimensions:
   • 1983–91 Rear wheel drive vehicles — 14.8–14.9 in. (37.6–37.8cm)
   • 1992–95 Rear wheel drive vehicles — 11.988–12.067 in. (30.45–30.65cm)
   • 1983–95 4-wheel drive vehicles — 10.9–11.0 in. (27.7–27.9cm)

     Fig. 5: Tie rod end measurements for reassembly — 1983–91 vehicles

     Fig. 6: Tie rod end measurements for reassembly — 1992–95 vehicles

7. Install the new end and turn it in the same number of turns or until the same amount of threads is left protruding from the sleeve. This will approximate the original setting.
8. Install the tie rod joint to the knuckle. Tighten the nut to 25–33 ft. lbs. (35–45 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
9. Install the inner tie rod end to the relay rod, then tighten to the castle nut to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm). Install a new cotter pin.
10. Lubricate the front end.
11. Install the wheels and lower the vehicle to the ground.
12. Have the front end aligned at an automotive shop.