The brake system is bled through the bleeder screws on the calipers and/or
rear wheel cylinders. The system must be bled whenever air enters, whether due
to disconnection of a hydraulic line or a leak. A spongy brake pedal indicates
bleeding is needed even when no repairs have been made. Also check carefully
for leaks and repair them as necessary.
Bleeding pumps fluid into the system via the master cylinder and bleeds air
out through the bleed valves. You must keep the master cylinder reservoir full
of fluid at all times to provide a continuous flow of air-free fluid into the
system. You'll also need an assistant who will keep constant pressure on the
brake pedal at all times to keep air from being drawn back into the system.
WARNING
Do not allow brake fluid to splash or spill onto painted surfaces; the paint
will be damaged. If spillage occurs, flush the area immediately with clean water.
- Fill the master cylinder reservoir to the "MAX'' line with brake fluid and
keep it at least half full throughout the bleeding procedure.
- If the master cylinder has been removed or disconnected, it must be bled
before any brake unit is bled. To bleed the master cylinder:
- Disconnect the front brake line from the master cylinder and allow fluid
to flow from the front connector port.
- Reconnect the line to the master cylinder and tighten it until it is
fluid tight.
- Have a helper press the brake pedal down one time and hold it down.
- Loosen the front brake line connection at the master cylinder. This
will allow trapped air to escape, along with some fluid. (Have a rag or
small container handy to catch the fluid.)
- Again tighten the line, release the pedal slowly and repeat the sequence
(Steps 2c, d, and e) until only fluid runs from the port. No air bubbles
should be present in the fluid.
- Final tighten the line fitting at the master cylinder to 11 ft. lbs.
(15 Nm).
- After all the air has been bled from the front connection, bleed the
master cylinder at the rear connection by repeating Steps 2a through e.
| Fig. 1: Bleed the brake system in the order shown
above — Pick-ups and Monteros with no load sensing
valve or ABS systems
|
| Fig. 2: Use a piece of hose with one end attached
over the bleeder valve and the other end submerged in a clear,
unbreakable container of brake fluid
|
| Fig. 3: Do the same for the front calipers — have
a helper work the pedal while loosening and tightening the bleeder
valve
|
- Start with the right rear brake caliper or wheel cylinder. Place the correct
size box-end or line wrench over the bleeder valve and attach a tight-fitting
transparent hose over the bleeder. Allow the tube to hang submerged in a transparent
container of clean brake fluid. The fluid must remain above the end of the
hose at all times, otherwise the system will ingest air instead of fluid.
- Have an assistant pump the brake pedal several times slowly and hold it
down.
- Open the bleed point (about 1⁄4 – 1⁄2 turn
is usually enough) and watch for bubbles in the brake fluid flow into the
container. You must close the bleed valve before the brake pedal bottoms in
its travel. Once the assistant has the feel of the pedal, he can warn you
in advance. The more the bleed valve is opened, the quicker the pedal travels
downward. With the bleed point closed, the assistant should release the pedal
so the master cylinder will admit fresh, air-free fluid into the system. Once
he has put pressure back on the pedal, you may re-open the bleed point, again
closing it before the pedal bottoms out. Repeat this process until the fluid
flowing from the bleed point is entirely air-free.
- After two or three bleedings, check and replenish the fluid in the reservoir.
- Repeat the process, in the correct order, at each remaining wheel. The general
theory is to bleed the longest lines first and work towards the master cylinder — right
rear, left rear, right front, left front.
- When all four wheels have been bled and no air is evident in the fluid,
refill the master cylinder reservoir and attach the cap tightly.
