Cylinder Head

REMOVAL & INSTALLATION

The engine must be removed from the vehicle to remove the cylinder heads. Although it is physically possible (on some models) to remove the cylinder heads with the engine installed, head gasket failure will result upon installation, due to misalignment of the cylinders. The cylinder heads should be removed with the engine cold to prevent warpage.

1. Remove the engine from the vehicle and mount it on a workstand.
2. Unbolt and remove the intake manifold together with the carburetor/throttle body and the various pollution control devices. On 1977 and later models, remove the EGR pipe from the intake manifold and cylinder head. On 1982–84 models, this includes removing the thermostatic water valve and hose and the oil filler pipe brackets. On the turbocharged models, remove the turbocharger and exhaust manifold, and disconnect the fuel injection lines.

   Fig. 2: Loosen the head bolts in the reverse order of the tightening sequence . . .

   Fig. 3: . . . then remove the head from the engine

   Fig. 4: Clean the old gasket from both mating surfaces

   NOTE: Move or disconnect any engine wiring that might impair intake manifold removal.

3. Remove the spark plugs.
4. Disconnect the crankcase ventilation hose(s) and remove the valve covers.
5. Loosen the alternator adjusting bolts, and unbolt the alternator bracket from the cylinder head.
6. Remove the air injection distributor tubes from the cylinder heads by unscrewing the fittings on models so equipped.
7. On the 1800 Turbo, remove the knock sensor with a 27mm deep well socket only! (A standard socket will damage electrical terminals). Then, remove the fuel injectors.
8. Loosen the valve rocker locknuts and adjusting screws (solid lifter engines only). Loosen the rocker shaft mounting nuts, and remove the rocker arm assembly and pushrods.

   NOTE: If the pushrods are to be reused, keep them in order so that they are installed in the original positions. The pushrods for all engines are identified by knurling (or the absence of knurling). If you are replacing pushrods, make sure knurled patterns are similar or that unmarked pushrods are replaced by unmarked rods. Markings vary from year to year. For example, for 1981 and 1982, 1800cc OHV engines used pushrods with two knurled marks, while 1983–84 engines have 2 knurled marks for 1600cc engines, a single mark for solid lifter, 1800 engines, and no markings for hydraulic lifter engines.

9. Gradually loosen the head bolts using the correct sequence. If a loosening sequence is not illustrated, reverse the tightening sequence given. Remove the cylinder heads and gaskets.

   Fig. 5: Loosening sequence of cylinder head bolts — ff–1 models. Use the reverse of this sequence to tighten the bolts

   Fig. 6: Loosening sequence for cylinder head bolts — 1980 models

   Fig. 7: Loosening sequence for cylinder head bolts — 1981 models

   Fig. 8: Loosening sequence for cylinder head bolts — 1982–84 models

   To install:

   NOTE: The cylinder heads must installed with the cylinders vertical, to avoid misalignment, and to permit the head gasket to crush evenly around the cylinder.

10. Construct a cylinder head spacer as shown in the illustration. Assemble the cylinder head on the engine and use the spacer in place of the rocker shaft support. After the cylinder head is tightened to specification following the correct sequence, remove the rocker shaft bolts (or nuts) and spacers, then install the rocker shafts.

    Fig. 9: Make a cylinder head spacer as shown

11. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal.

    Fig. 10: Tightening sequence of cylinder head bolts — 1970–79 models (except ff-1)

    Fig. 11: Tightening sequence of cylinder head bolts — 1980 models

    Fig. 12: Tightening sequence for cylinder head bolts — 1981 models

    Fig. 13: Tightening sequence for cylinder head bolts — 1982–84 models