2007 Wrangler JK Factory Service Manual 7 - COOLING

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING

ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS - OBD


COOLING SYSTEM RELATED DIAGNOSTICS

The Powertrain Control Module (PCM) has been programmed to monitor the following cooling system components:

  • If the engine has remained cool for too long a period, such as with a stuck open thermostat, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) can be set.
  • If an open or shorted condition has developed in the relay circuit controlling the electric radiator fan, a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) can be set.

If the problem is sensed in a monitored circuit often enough to indicate an actual problem, a DTC is stored. The DTC will be stored in the PCM memory for eventual display to the service technician.


ACCESSING DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODES

To read DTC's and to obtain cooling system data, (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL/ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS - OPERATION).

PRELIMINARY CHECKS


ENGINE COOLING SYSTEM OVERHEATING

Establish what driving conditions caused the complaint. Abnormal loads on the cooling system such as the following may be the cause:

  • Prolonged idle
  • Very high ambient temperature
  • Slight tail wind at idle
  • Slow traffic
  • Traffic jams
  • High speed or steep grades

Driving techniques that avoid overheating are:

  • Idle with A/C off when temperature gauge is at end of normal range.
  • Increasing engine speed for more air flow is recommended. (Diesel engine only)

TRAILER TOWING:

Consult Trailer Towing section of owners manual. Do not exceed limits.


RECENT SERVICE OR ACCIDENT REPAIR:

Determine if any recent service has been performed on vehicle that may effect cooling system. This may be:

  • Engine adjustments (incorrect timing)
  • Slipping engine accessory drive belt(s)
  • Brakes (possibly dragging)
  • Changed parts. Incorrect water pump or pump rotating in wrong direction due to belt not correctly routed
  • Reconditioned radiator or cooling system refilling (possibly under filled or air trapped in system).

NOTE: If investigation reveals none of the previous items as a cause for an engine overheating complaint, refer to COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART.


COOLING SYSTEM DIAGNOSIS CHART

CONDITION
 
POSSIBLE CAUSES
 
CORRECTION
 
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS LOW
 
1. Has a Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) been set indicating a stuck open thermostat?
 
1. (Refer to 25 - EMISSIONS CONTROL/ON-BOARD DIAGNOSTICS - OPERATION). Replace thermostat if necessary.
 
2. Is the temperature sending unit connected?
 
2. Check the temperature sensor connector. Repair connector if necessary.
 
 
3. Is the temperature gauge operating OK?
 
3. Check gauge operation (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Repair as necessary.
 
 
4. Coolant level low in cold ambient temperatures, accompanied with poor heater performance.
 
4. Check coolant level in the coolant reserve/overflow tank or degas bottle and the radiator. Inspect system for leaks. Repair leaks as necessary. Refer to the Coolant section of the manual text for WARNINGS and CAUTIONS associated with removing the radiator cap.
 
 
5. Improper operation of internal heater doors or heater controls.
 
5. Inspect heater and repair as necessary. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING) for procedures.
 
 
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READS HIGH OR THE COOLANT WARNING LAMP ILLUMINATES. COOLANT MAY OR MAY NOT BE LOST OR LEAKING FROM THE COOLING SYSTEM
 
1. Trailer is being towed, a steep hill is being climbed, vehicle is operated in slow moving traffic, or engine is being idled with very high ambient (outside) temperatures and the air conditioning is on. Higher altitudes could aggravate these conditions.
 
1. This may be a temporary condition and repair is not necessary. Turn off the air conditioning and attempt to drive the vehicle without any of the previous conditions. Observe the temperature gauge. The gauge should return to the normal range. If the gauge does not return to the normal range, determine the cause for overheating and repair. Refer to Possible Causes (2-18).
 
2. Is the temperature gauge reading correctly?
 
2. Check gauge. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Repair as necessary.
 
 
3. Is the temperature warning illuminating unnecessarily?
 
3. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
 
 
4. Coolant low in coolant reserve/overflow tank and radiator?
 
4. Check for coolant leaks and repair as necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
 
 
5. Pressure cap not installed tightly. If cap is loose, boiling point of coolant will be lowered. Also refer to the following Step 6.
 
5. Tighten cap
 
 
6. Poor seals at the radiator cap.
 
6. (a) Check condition of cap and cap seals. Refer to Radiator Cap. Replace cap if necessary.
 
 
(b) Check condition of radiator filler neck or degas bottle. If neck is bent or damaged, replace radiator or degas bottle.
 
   
7. Coolant level low in radiator but not in coolant reserve/overflow tank. This means the radiator is not drawing coolant from the coolant reserve/overflow tank as the engine cools
 
7. (a) Check condition of radiator cap and cap seals. Refer to Radiator Cap in this Group. Replace cap if necessary.
 
 
(b) Check condition of radiator filler neck. If neck is bent or damaged, replace radiator.
 
   
(c) Check condition of the hose from the radiator to the coolant tank. It should fit tight at both ends without any kinks or tears. Replace hose if necessary.
 
   
(d) Check coolant reserve/overflow tank and tanks hoses for blockage. Repair as necessary.
 
   
8. Incorrect coolant concentration
 
8. Check coolant. (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION).
 
 
9. Coolant not flowing through system
 
9. Check for coolant flow at radiator filler neck with some coolant removed, engine warm and thermostat open. Coolant should be observed flowing through radiator. If flow is not observed, determine area of obstruction and repair as necessary.
 
 
10. Radiator or A/C condenser fins are dirty or clogged.
 
10. Remove insects and debris. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - STANDARD PROCEDURE).
 
 
11. Radiator core is corroded or plugged.
 
11. Have radiator re-cored or replaced.
 
 
12. Dragging brakes
 
12. Check and correct as necessary. (Refer to 5 - BRAKES - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING)
 
 
13. Fuel or ignition system problems.
 
13. Refer to 14 - Fuel System or 8 - Electrical for diagnosis and testing procedures.
 
 
14. Bug screen or cardboard is being, reducing airflow.
 
14. Remove bug screen or cardboard.
 
 
15. Thermostat partially or completely shut.
 
15. Check thermostat operation and replace as necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL) .
 
 
16. Viscous fan drive not operating properly.
 
16. Check fan drive operation and replace as necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - REMOVAL) .
 
 
17. Cylinder head gasket leaking.
 
17. Check for cylinder head gasket leaks. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
 
 
18. Heater core leaking.
 
18. Check heater core for leaks. (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Repair as necessary.
 
 
TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING IS INCONSISTENT (FLUCTUATES, CYCLES, OR IS ERRATIC
 
1. During cold weather operation, with the heater in the high position, the gauge reading may drop slightly.
 
1. During cold weather operation, with the heater in the high position, the gauge reading may drop slightly.
 
2. Temperature gauge or engine mounted gauge sensor defective or shorted. Also, corroded or loose wiring in this circuit.
 
2. Check operation of gauge and repair if necessary. (Refer to 8 - ELECTRICAL/INSTRUMENT CLUSTER - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
 
 
3. Gauge reading rises when vehicle is brought to a stop after heavy use (engine still running)
 
3. A normal condition. No correction is necessary. Gauge should return to normal range after vehicle is driven.
 
 
4. Gauge reading high after re-starting a warmed up (hot) engine.
 
4. A normal condition. No correction is necessary. The gauge should return to normal range after a few minutes of engine operation.
 
 
5. Coolant level low in radiator (air will build up in the cooling system causing the thermostat to open late).
 
5. Check and correct coolant leaks. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
 
 
6. Cylinder head gasket leaking allowing exhaust gas to enter cooling system causing a thermostat to open late.
 
6. (a) Check for cylinder head gasket leaks. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
 
 
(b) Check for coolant in the engine oil. Inspect for white steam emitting from the exhaust system. Repair as necessary.
 
   
7. Water pump impeller loose on shaft.
 
7. Check water pump and replace as necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/WATER PUMP - REMOVAL).
 
 
8. Loose accessory drive belt. (water pump slipping)
 
8. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Check and correct as necessary.
 
 
9. Air leak on the suction side of the water pump allows air to build up in cooling system causing thermostat to open late.
 
9. Locate leak and repair as necessary.
 
 
PRESSURE CAP IS BLOWING OFF STEAM AND/OR COOLANT TO COOLANT TANK. TEMPERATURE GAUGE READING MAY BE ABOVE NORMAL BUT NOT HIGH. COOLANT LEVEL MAY BE HIGH IN COOLANT RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK
 
1. Pressure relief valve in radiator cap is defective.
 
1. Check condition of radiator cap and cap seals. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Replace cap as necessary.
 
COOLANT LOSS TO THE GROUND WITHOUT PRESSURE CAP BLOWOFF. GAUGE READING HIGH OR HOT
 
1. Coolant leaks in radiator, cooling system hoses, water pump or engine.
 
1. Pressure test and repair as necessary. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
 
DETONATION OR PRE-IGNITION (NOT CAUSED BY IGNITION SYSTEM). GAUGE MAY OR MAY NOT BE READING HIGH
 
1. Engine overheating.
 
1. Check reason for overheating and repair as necessary.
 
2. Freeze point of coolant not correct. Mixture is too rich or too lean.
 
2. Check coolant concentration. (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION).
 
 
HOSE OR HOSES COLLAPSE WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING
 
1. Vacuum created in cooling system on engine cool-down is not being relieved through coolant reserve/overflow system.
 
1. (a) Radiator cap relief valve stuck. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/RADIATOR PRESSURE CAP - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). Replace if necessary
 
(b) Hose between coolant reserve/overflow tank and radiator is kinked. Repair as necessary.
 
   
(c) Vent at coolant reserve/overflow tank is plugged. Clean vent and repair as necessary.
 
   
(d) Reserve/overflow tank is internally blocked or plugged. Check for blockage and repair as necessary.
 
   
NOISY VISCOUS FAN/DRIVE
 
1. Fan blades loose.
 
1. Replace fan blade assembly. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
 
2. Fan blades striking a surrounding object.
 
2. Locate point of fan blade contact and repair as necessary.
 
 
3. Air obstructions at radiator or air conditioning condenser.
 
3. Remove obstructions and/or clean debris or insects from radiator or A/C condenser.
 
 
4. Thermal viscous fan drive has defective bearing.
 
4. Replace fan drive. Bearing is not serviceable. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - REMOVAL).
 
 
5. A certain amount of fan noise may be evident on models equipped with a thermal viscous fan drive. Some of this noise is normal.
 
5. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/FAN DRIVE VISCOUS CLUTCH - DESCRIPTION) for an explanation of normal fan noise.
 
 
INADEQUATE HEATER PERFORMANCE. THERMOSTAT FAILED IN OPEN POSITION
 
1. Has a Diagnostic trouble Code (DTC) been set?
 
1. (Refer to 9 - ENGINE - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
 
2. Coolant level low
 
2. (Refer to 7 - COOLING - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
 
 
3. Obstructions in heater hose/fittings
 
3. Remove heater hoses at both ends and check for obstructions
 
 
4. Heater hose kinked
 
4. Locate kinked area and repair as necessary
 
 
5. Water pump is not pumping water to/through the heater core. When the engine is fully warmed up, both heater hoses should be hot to the touch. If only one of the hoses is hot, the water pump may not be operating correctly or the heater core may be plugged. Accessory drive belt may be slipping causing poor water pump operation.
 
5. (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/WATER PUMP - REMOVAL). If a slipping belt is detected, (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING). If heater core obstruction is detected, (Refer to 24 - HEATING & AIR CONDITIONING/PLUMBING/HEATER CORE - REMOVAL)
 
 
STEAM IS COMING FROM THE FRONT OF VEHICLE NEAR THE GRILL AREA WHEN WEATHER IS WET, ENGINE IS WARMED UP AND RUNNING, AND VEHICLE IS STATIONARY. TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS IN NORMAL RANGE
 
1. During wet weather, moisture (snow, ice or rain condensation) on the radiator will evaporate when the thermostat opens. This opening allows heated water into the radiator. When the moisture contacts the hot radiator, steam may be emitted. This usually occurs in cold weather with no fan or airflow to blow it away.
 
1. Occasional steam emitting from this area is normal. No repair is necessary.
 
COOLANT COLOR
 
1. Coolant color is not necessarily an indication of adequate corrosion or temperature protection. Do not rely on coolant color for determining condition of coolant.
 
1. (Refer to LUBRICATION & MAINTENANCE/FLUID TYPES - DESCRIPTION) Adjust coolant mixture as necessary.
 
COOLANT LEVEL CHANGES IN COOLANT RESERVE/OVERFLOW TANK. TEMPERATURE GAUGE IS IN NORMAL RANGE
 
1. Level changes are to be expected as coolant volume fluctuates with engine temperature. If the level in the tank was between the FULL and ADD marks at normal operating temperature, the level should return to within that range after operation at elevated temperatures.
 
1. A normal condition. No repair is necessary.
 

DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING - COOLING SYSTEM - TESTING FOR LEAKS


ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT METHOD



All Jeep models have a leak detection additive added to the cooling system before they leave the factory. The additive is highly visible under ultraviolet light (black light). If the factory original coolant has been drained, pour one ounce of additive into the cooling system. The additive is available through the parts department. Place the heater control unit in HEAT position. Start and operate the engine until the radiator upper hose is warm to the touch. Aim the commercially available black light tool at the components to be checked. If leaks are present, the black light will cause the additive to glow a bright green color.

The black light can be used along with a pressure tester to determine if any external leaks exist.


PRESSURE TESTER METHOD



The engine should be at the normal operating temperature. Recheck the system cold if the cause of coolant loss is not located during warm engine examination.

WARNING: Hot, pressurized coolant can cause injury by scalding.

Carefully remove the radiator pressure cap from the filler neck and check the coolant level. Push down on the cap to disengage it from the stop tabs. Wipe the inner part of the filler neck and examine the lower inside sealing seat for nicks, cracks, paint, dirt and solder residue. Inspect the reserve/overflow tank tube for internal obstructions. Insert a wire through the tube to be sure it is not obstructed.

Inspect the cams on the outside part of the filler neck. If the cams are bent, seating of pressure cap valve and tester seal will be affected. Replace cap if cams are bent.

Attach pressure tester 7700 (or an equivalent) to the radiator filler neck.

Operate the tester pump to apply 124 kPa (18 psi) pressure to the system. If the hoses enlarge excessively or bulge while testing, replace as necessary. Observe the gauge pointer and determine the condition of the cooling system according to the following criteria:

  • Holds Steady: If the pointer remains steady for two minutes, there are no serious coolant leaks in the system. However, there could be an internal leak that does not appear with normal system test pressure. Inspect for interior leakage or do the Internal Leakage Test. Do this if it is certain that coolant is being lost and no leaks can be detected.
  • Drops Slowly: Shows a small leak or seepage is occurring. Examine all connections for seepage or slight leakage with a flashlight. Inspect the radiator, hoses, gasket edges and heater. Seal any small leak holes with a Sealer Lubricant or equivalent. Repair leak holes and reinspect the system with pressure applied.
  • Drops Quickly: Shows that a serious leakage is occurring. Examine the system for serious external leakage. If no leaks are visible, inspect for internal leakage. Large radiator leak holes should be repaired by a reputable radiator repair shop.

INTERNAL LEAKAGE INSPECTION

Remove the engine oil pan drain plug and drain a small amount of engine oil. Coolant, being heavier than engine oil, will drain first. Another way of testing is to operate the engine and check for water globules on the engine oil dipstick. Also inspect the automatic transmission oil dipstick for water globules. Inspect the automatic transmission fluid cooler for leakage. Operate the engine without the pressure cap on the radiator until thermostat opens.

Attach a pressure tester to the filler neck. If pressure builds up quickly, a leak exists as a result of a faulty cylinder head gasket or crack in the engine. Repair as necessary.

WARNING: Do not allow pressure to exceed 124 kpa (18 psi). Turn the engine off. To release the pressure, rock the tester from side to side. When removing the tester, do not turn the tester more than 1/2 turn if the system is under pressure.

If there is no immediate pressure increase, pump the pressure tester until the indicated pressure is within the system range. Vibration of the gauge pointer indicates compression or combustion leakage into the cooling system.

WARNING: Do not disconnect the spark plug wires while the engine is operating.

CAUTION: Do not operate the engine with a spark plug shorted for more than a minute. The catalytic converter may be damaged.

Isolate the compression leak by shorting each spark plug to the cylinder block. The gauge pointer should stop or decrease vibration when spark plug for leaking cylinder is shorted. This happens because of the absence of combustion pressure.


COMBUSTION LEAKAGE TEST (WITHOUT PRESSURE TESTER)

DO NOT WASTE reusable coolant. If the solution is clean, drain the coolant into a clean container for reuse.

WARNING: Do not remove the cylinder block drain plugs or loosen the radiator draincock with the system hot and under pressure. Serious burns from coolant can occur.

Remove thermostat (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ENGINE/ENGINE COOLANT THERMOSTAT - REMOVAL).

Remove accessory drive belt (Refer to 7 - COOLING/ACCESSORY DRIVE/DRIVE BELTS - REMOVAL).

Add coolant to the radiator to bring the level to within 6.3 mm (1/4 in) of the top of the thermostat housing.

CAUTION: Avoid overheating. Do not operate the engine for an excessive period of time. Open the draincock immediately after the test to eliminate boil over of coolant.

Start the engine and accelerate rapidly three times (to approximately 3000 rpm) while observing the coolant. If internal engine combustion gases are leaking into the cooling system, bubbles will appear in the coolant. If bubbles do not appear, there is no internal combustion gas leakage.